Thursday, February 28, 2008

Crêpes au sucre (Sugar pancakes)

How to Make Perfect Crêpes: Sweet and Savory Recipes

Crêpes are very thin cooked pancakes that can be used for both sweet and savory dishes. The common ingredients include flour, milk, eggs, butter and a pinch of salt.

According to Jacques Pepin, “in France the crêpe used to be called pannequet, from which the word pancake is probably derived. A very thin pannequet resembles the wrinkled, fragile looking fabric which we know as crêpe.”

I remember a crêpe-like dish my mom would make that we called “egg cakes”. My sister and I would gobble each one up as fast as she made it, spread it with butter, roll it up, and dip it in pure maple syrup. Yum. One lunch time when we were in high school, we raced home to make them. Using our mom’s square electric frying pan (that did not have a non-stick coating by the way), we quickly started frying up our egg cakes. And quickly, they started sticking and burning and smoking up the house. I think we managed to get a few good egg cakes made even so. Little did I know we were making (or attempting to make) crêpes!

Wrapped around your favorite filling, such as chicken, asparagus and mushrooms or curried seafood, crêpes can be served as an appetizer, a main course, or even brunch. Often, buckwheat flour is used in savory crêpes giving them an earthy, mild mushroom-y taste. And, it’s gluten-free; however, it’s often mixed with wheat flours to mellow out the buckwheat taste.

Sweetened with sugar and vanilla, they can be filled with jam, melted chocolate, ice cream, fruit, or even Nutella (a hazelnut spread). Drizzled with maple syrup or lemon juice, sprinkled with icing sugar, topped with whipped cream or all of the above, crêpes are a simple but delicious dessert. Often, wheat flour, such as all-purpose flour, is used in sweet crêpes.

Crêpes come from Brittany (as does Pâté Pantin), a region in the northwest of France. It occupies a large peninsula in the northwest of the country, lying between the English Channel to the north and the Bay of Biscay to the south.

map from Wikipedia

The thickness of the batter can be adjusted by adding more or less milk, water, or a mixture of milk and water. Plus, it’s easier to get rid of lumps in thicker batter so adding the liquid in two stages makes it easier to get a smooth batter.

According to Mastering the Art of French Cooking, you should make the crêpe batter about 2 hours before using it to allow the flour particles to expand in the liquid and the batter to thicken, insuring a tender, light, thin crêpe. Le Cordon Bleu at Home suggests resting it for 30 minutes, and Jacques Pepin says you don’t have to rest it at all!

Although there are special crêpe pans, you don’t need one to make crêpes. You just need a non-stick pan.

Crêpes can be rolled, folded into triangles, rolled into a thin cigarette, folded into a rectangle, or stacked to make a cake.

Did you know that there is a Crêpe Day on February 2nd? And I thought February 2nd was only for groundhog celebrations! It was originally a Catholic holiday called La Chandeleur. According to this link, you must have a candle lit and then hold a gold coin in your left hand while you flip the crêpe over the skillet with your right hand. If you can catch the crêpe in the pan, your family will enjoy prosperity for the rest of the year. I did practice flipping each crêpe, but next time I’ll have to light a candle and find a gold coin instead of buying more lottery tickets.

Recipe: Crêpes au sucre (Sugar pancakes) 



¾ cup all-purpose flour
Pinch salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons (1½ ounces) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

You can find the recipe in Le Cordon Bleu at Home (.affiliate link)

Here is a helpful video that shows how to cook a crêpe:• Link

Tasting Notes:

Crêpes in any form are delicious. I love them on their own, wrapped around ice cream, or served as an entrée with a creamy chicken inside. The batter for this sweet crêpe was perfect. I think it would be fun to experiment by adding poppy seeds, different flavorings such as anise or earl grey, or different liqueurs in place of the vanilla. Definitely a keeper.

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $179.50 + $1.16 = $180.66

Butter used so far: 4 pounds, 1.5 tablespoons




Monday, February 25, 2008

Fettuccini Alfredo (Fresh pasta with a creamy pepper and Parmesan cheese sauce)


Fettuccini Alfredo is a rich pasta dish said to be created by restaurateur Alfredo di Lello in Rome in the 1920s, and the recipe was kept secret until recently. As the story goes, when his wife became pregnant and lost her appetite, he created this recipe out of love and his need to nourish her and his baby. There is also a story that Signore Alfredo was given a golden spoon and fork by Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford because they thought his pasta was so delicious and that tossing the fettuccini with those forks was the "secret" to the recipe.

The original recipe does not contain cream, pepper, parsley, or chives. It only contains butter and Parmesan (specifically Parmigiano-Reggiano) and maybe a pinch of salt.


The fettuccini noodles must be made fresh, or “fatte in casa” (made in the house). Fresh pasta is the key since it holds onto the sauce. The noodles should be 1/5-inch wide (5 mm). Traditionally, pasta is made with semolina flour, a coarse-textured flour that is high in gluten and makes a firmer noodle. Noodles must be cooked al dente, the Italian phrase meaning “to the tooth”, which means pasta that is slightly resistant to bite.

Fettuccini Alfredo is typically served as a first course, not a main course.

Did you know that there is a National Fettuccini Alfredo Day on February 7? 

Recipe: Pâte Fraîches (fresh noodles) 

Makes 1 pound

2 cups all-purpose flour (You could use ½ cup semolina and 1½ cups all-purpose.)
3 egg yolks
3 tablespoons vegetable oil (or olive oil)
¼ teaspoons salt
5-6 tablespoons cold water
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter

You can find the recipe in Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Recipe:  Original Fettuccini Alfredo 
from Link

Alfredo di Lelio

Serves 4

1 lb of fresh, fettuccini noodles
6 oz unsalted butter
6 oz Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (aged 24 months), grated

Cook the fettuccini noodles in 1 gallon (16 cups) of salted boiling water for three minutes.

Soak the serving dish in a bowl or sink of boiling or very hot water. Dry off the bowl and put the butter in the bowl to melt.

Strain the pasta leaving just a small amount of water (about 3 tablespoons) and toss the noodles with the butter and the grated cheese. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.

Serve in a warm bowl so that the pasta doesn’t congeal.

Variations:

To make it a main-course pasta dish, add chicken or salmon. You can also add mushrooms, garlic, and of course, heavy cream. Sprinkle with parsley and fresh ground nutmeg, if desired.

Tasting Notes

I enjoyed the fresh fettuccini noodles, but I found the Fettuccini Alfredo greasy and bland. I added some freshly ground pepper, but I think I prefer the Americanized version with garlic and cream. My kids enjoyed it though.

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $170.88 + $1.54 (pâte fraîches) + $7.08 (Fettuccini Alfredo) = $ 179.50

Butter used so far: 3 pounds, 30.5 tablespoons

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Thursday, February 21, 2008

Gnocchi à la parisienne (Baked dumplings in Mornay sauce)



Gnocchi (nyo-kee) à la parisienne is a French version of gnocchi baked with a Mornay sauce. Although it’s a simple recipe, there are a couple of culinary things to learn, including how to make pâte à choux and Mornay sauce.

Gnocchi means “lumps” or “dumplings”. But these lumps are pillowy-soft-melt-in-your-mouth lumps since they’re made out of pâte à choux (not potatoes like their Italian counterpart). The gnocchi is spooned or piped into 180° water where it cooks until it floats to the top. The high moisture content and the eggs in the pâte à choux create steam that puffs each tender gnocchi. However, due to their delicate nature, if you overcook them, they’ll fall apart.

Pâte à choux (pronounced “shoe”), also called choux paste, hearkens back to 1540 and comes from the word “choux”, which means cabbage in French— that’s what pâte à choux looks like when baked as traditional cream puffs. Choux paste contains four simple ingredients: butter, water, flour, and eggs. Pâte à choux is such a versatile recipe, and can be used for both sweet and savory dishes, such as Gougères or chouquettes, Pommes dauphine, Croquembouche, and even Paris-Brest.

The Mornay sauce that covers the gnocchi is a béchamel sauce with the addition of cheese (usually half Gruyère and half Parmesan). A béchamel sauce is a roux blanc with the addition of milk. A roux blanc is flour and butter that are cooked just long enough to eliminate the taste of raw flour without coloring the mixture. So, to summarize:

Mornay = béchamel + cheese + eggs (sometimes)
Béchamel = roux blanc + milk
Roux blanc = butter + flour

Gnocchi à la parisienne is cooked au gratin, meaning covered with butter and grated cheese and then browned in an oven.

Recipe: Gnocchi à la parisienne 

adapted from Link

Pâte à choux:


1 cup milk
½ stick unsalted butter (4 tablespoons or ¼ cup or 2 ounces)
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated
⅛ teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 large eggs

Mornay Sauce:



1 to 1½ cups whole milk
2 tablespoons (25 grams) butter
2 tablespoons (25 grams) all-purpose flour
freshly ground nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons (25 grams) Parmesan cheese, grated
1 tablespoon butter, chilled, diced

For the pâte à choux:

Combine the milk and butter in a saucepan and heat until the butter melts and the milk boils.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour all at once. Beat until a thick mixture forms. Stir over low heat until the mixture pulls away from the pan and the mixture dries a bit. Cool slightly. (If you don’t cool the mixture, the eggs will scramble when you add them.)

Add the salt, Parmesan cheese, and nutmeg. Then beat in the first 2 eggs, one at a time, beating until thoroughly blended after each addition. Then lightly beat the third egg in a small bowl and add it little by little. Add just enough beaten egg for the mixture to become smooth and shiny and fall slowly from the spoon in a point.

For the gnocchi:

Bring a pot of salted water to almost a boil (180°F). Prepare an ice water bath.

Using a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip, fill the bag with the gnocchi dough. Press the dough out and cut it off at the tip using a paring knife, making small rectangular gnocchi.

Poach the gnocchi in the water for about 3 minutes. When they are cooked, they will float to the surface. Carefully lift the gnocchi out with a slotted spoon (they will not be completely cooked inside) and gently drop them in a bowl of iced water to cool. They will sink to the bottom of the bowl when cool. Drain and use right away, or refrigerate for later use.

Note: You can freeze the gnocchi on a sheet pan and then store in a freezer bag for up to six weeks.

For the Mornay sauce:

Bring the milk to a simmer over medium heat. In a separate saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour. Cook the flour for a few minutes without allowing it to color. Whisk in the milk and continue whisking until thickened. Season the sauce with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Off heat, add the Parmesan cheese.

If you add the cheese while it is still on the heat, it will become stringy. If the sauce has lumps, pass it through a fine strainer and reheat in a clean saucepan.

Thin as desired with scalded cream. Taste and adjust seasonings. Keep warm (over a saucepan of hot water) until needed.

To finish the gnocchi:

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spread a little of the Mornay sauce over the bottom of the gratin dish. Spoon the gnocchi on top of the sauce. Top with more sauce. Dot with butter and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Bake until the surface is browned, about 15-20 minutes. Broil to finish browning the top. Sprinkle with parsley.

Variations:

You can use different cheeses, such as Gruyère, Comté, or Emmentaler. You can also add herbs, such as chervil, chives, parsley, tarragon, or basil or a combination.

Tasting Notes

Gnocchi à la parisienne has a clean, tender yet chewy, eggy taste. Although the gnocchi taste light, they are full of calories and definitely not on the diet list. Next time, I'll add more salt since it tasted very bland.

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total:
$167.53 + $3.35 = $170.88

Butter used so far:
3 pounds, 16.5 tablespoons

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Monday, February 18, 2008

Allumettes au fromage (Puff pastry strips with cheese)


Puff pastry, the big “puff daddy” of pastries, is sometimes called the “queen of all pastries”. In French, pâte feuilletée (paht fuh-yuh-TAY) means “leaved” or “leafy”, and literally translates to flaky pastry. However, paste is what I found to be the case during my first two attempts, not puff paste!

Why make homemade puff pastry when you can buy store-bought? It’s a challenge, but it tastes better, richer. Also, many store varieties use hydrogenated fat instead of real butter. However, by making it at home, you can control what fat goes into your puff pastry. In France, you can buy beurre sec, which is a dry butter that has a low moisture content, but a high fat content and therefore doesn’t melt as fast. The butter in Canada and the U.S. has more moisture. If possible, try to locate European (or European-style) butter. If that’s not possible, try to find the hardest butter in your supermarket by using the finger test!

Puff pastry is used in both sweet (such as shells for tarts, napoleons, palmiers, Danishes, strudels, and turnovers) and savory dishes (such as croissants, cheese straws, beef wellington, salmon en croûte and pâté en croûte, and vol-au-vents). Although my allumettes were fatter than matchsticks, I tried making puff pastry strips again using a more matchstick shape.



What separates puff pastry from regular pastry is the layers. Layers of dough and butter are carefully combined so as to make a pastry with exactly 729 layers.

The layering is accomplished through turning (also called lamination). Lamination means sandwiching something between layers, in this case dough-butter-dough. Each rolling and folding is called a turn. Classic puff pastry is turned 6 times. If each turn creates 3 layers, that means 3 to the 6th power which equals 729 layers of butter between 730 layers of dough. I love Google! When I typed “3 to the 6th” in the Google search bar, this is what it showed:
Puff pastry depends on these 729 thin layers to hold the steam and puff up. Puff pastry is sometimes called Mille feuilles, or a thousand leaves. This is because there are 730 layers of dough and 729 layers of butter. If you add these together, you get 1457 layers.

If all goes well, the layers of butter alternate with the layers of dough. In the oven, as the butter melts, the dough absorbs the flavour, and steam is generated. This evaporation pushes the layers apart, making a buttery and flaky pastry with many layers.

A big key to making puff pastry is keeping the dough and butter cold, around 60°F. This means patience, which I don’t tend to have a lot of. After a couple of attempts at making this pastry, I decided given that our home is warmer than it should be given the wintry weather outside, I needed to do one turn and then put it back in the refrigerator. This helped avoid the situation of having the butter seep through the dough causing a big sticky mess.

Use a cold, marble slab, if you can. I don’t have that, so I filled a large bowl with ice water and put it on the counter where I would be rolling out the dough. This helped keep the counter cool. You could also put a cookie sheet in the freezer and then use it to work with the dough.

Recipe: Puff Pastry 


1½ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup cake and pastry flour
1 teaspoon salt
⅔ to ¾ cup cold water (up to 1 cup)
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
14 tablespoons (7 ounces) unsalted butter
1 large egg, slightly beaten, for glazing

You can find the recipe in Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Recipe: Cheese Straws 

2 ounces (½ cup) Parmesan cheese, grated (I used old cheddar)

You can find the recipe in Le Cordon Bleu at Home (affiliate link).

Here’s a tip c/o Alton Brown: If you’re cutting the dough on a cutting board, flip the dough so that the side that was touching the cutting board is on the top. It was not torn, stretched, or squeezed as much as the top.


Tasting Notes

Crispy, light, cheesy. Better than Pepperidge Farm Goldfish, according to one of my daughters!

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $163.18 + $4.35 = $167.53

Butter used so far: 3 pounds, 9.5 tablespoons

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Saturday, February 16, 2008

Review — Basic Doughs Part 2

Yeasted dough requires rising time. Sausage requires marinating. So, if you had the sausage made, the brioche ready, and the dough for the Pissaladière done, the finishing wouldn’t take too long. You could focus on the Tarte au sucre and cooking the onions for the Pissaladière. Here’s what my plan would look like if I were to make the following in one go:

• Pissaladière
• Saucisson en brioche
• Tarte au sucre


Step 1: 3 days in advance
Make sausages for the Saucisson en brioche to cure for up to 3 days.

Mise en place: measure and prepare meat
grind 1½ pounds pork

Mise en place: measure herbs, spices, and pantry items
2½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon sugar
¾ teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground
2 tablespoons white wine
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons black truffle, in julienne slivers (or dried porcini, in ¼-inch pieces)

Step 2
Make Tarte au sucre so that it can rise for up to 2 hours.

Mise en place: measure liquids and eggs
⅓ cup whole milk, warmed to 110°F (use an instant read thermometer if you have one)

Mise en place: measure herbs, spices, and pantry items
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons flour (more as needed)
2 eggs
¾ teaspoon salt

Mise en place: measure butter
6 tablespoons butter

Step 3
Make dough for Pissaladière so that it can rise for 90 minutes.

Mise en place: measure liquids and eggs
½ cup warm water (110°F, if using a thermometer) plus 1 cup warm water
22 g (2 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil

Mise en place: measure herbs, spices, and pantry items
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
575 g (3½ cups) all-purpose flour
6 g (1 teaspoon) salt

Step 4
Make brioche for the Saucisson en brioche so that it can rise for 1 hour or overnight.

Mise en place: measure herbs, spices, and pantry items
1 tablespoon and 3 tablespoons sugar (¼ cup total)
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
4 cups bread flour (I used all-purpose flour)
1 teaspoon salt

Mise en place: measure liquids and eggs
1 cup warm water (110°F)
2 large eggs
5 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon oil for bowl

Mise en place: measure butter
10 ounces (2½ sticks or 20 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened

Step 5
Start cooking onions for Pissaladière so that they can cook for 30 minutes.

Mise en place: chopping
1 kg white onions (just over 2 pounds)

Mise en place: measure liquids and eggs
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
splash of water
½ teaspoon balsamic vinegar

Mise en place: measure herbs, spices, and pantry items
1 bay leaf
4 garlic cloves, whole

Step 6
Finish Pissaladière.

Mise en place:
fresh herbs such as rosemary, oregano, and thyme, chopped fine
about 16 Niçoise olives, sliced
8 to 10 anchovy fillets, well rinsed
black pepper, freshly ground

Step 7
Finish Saucisson en brioche.

Mise en place
2 large egg yolks, beaten
1 large egg, beaten
flour for coating

Step 8
Finish Tarte au sucre.

Mise en place
½ cup brown sugar
4 tablespoons butter





Friday, February 15, 2008

Tarte au sucre (Sugar pie)


Tarte au sucre from France is not your sugar pie from Quebec that I’ve had at Christmas since inheriting a French Canadian brother-in-law. It’s a sugar yeast cake more similar to brioche. It’s light and airy topped with butter and brown sugar, more like a rustic coffee cake.

My first challenge for this item was finding the right type of recipe to use. When you search for “Tarte au sucre”, the most common recipe that the search finds is the traditional French Canadian sugar pie made with brown sugar, cream, and vanilla. No yeast in sight. Obviously, this wasn’t the right type of sugar pie.

In my search for this recipe, I thought I’d found a similar dessert called La Galette Pérougienne, which means a flat cake made of puff pastry (or in this case brioche) from the ancient town of Pérouges. Pérouges is a medieval, walled town in the Ain region, which is part of the Rhône-Alpes region.

I even found a recipe for La Galette Pérougienne from the ancient town of Pérouges. I thought I’d hit the jackpot. But, there must be a typo in the recipe because it didn’t turn out (at least that’s my theory!). The recipe says to bake for 5 minutes, which may be the problem. I increased the time in the oven, but perhaps not enough. It turned out doughy, and inedible. So back to internet searching I went.

Attempt #2: I found a recipe that showed a picture of how the dessert looks when finished. I thought this would be the one. However, the dough was stringy and yeasty. The topping was tasty, though.

Attempt #3: During my next quest, I found out that the north of France is the largest sugar-producing region of France and is famous for producing sugar from beets. Then I found a recipe for Sugar Tart from my old standby—epicurious.com. It says this is a “Belgian” classic, which borders France on the north. When I tried this recipe (without using the food processor as is suggested), it remained flat as a pancake!

Attempt #4: Back to research. I found a recipe with pictures of the different stages. This one used a bread maker. Although, during this experiment, I wanted to replicate the tools I’d have at cooking school, and I’m pretty sure bread makers are not in the kitchen, I was desperate. I thought that if this recipe worked, then I would have something I could try by hand. So back to my kitchen I went. This time though, I used the recipe from epicurious.com but followed the technique described on the blog. This one was flat, chewy, and inedible.

So, I thought through all the different recipes I had tried. The one in Attempt #2 tasted the best of the bunch, which isn’t saying much. But, I thought that if I used the method used in Attempt #4 (namely using the bread maker), that I might be in luck. I also made sure the milk was no hotter than 110°F since I’d read that any higher could kill the yeast. And, I proofed the yeast to make sure it was alive and kicking. So, I gave it one last whirl. Guess what! It worked. Finally, I had a recipe that I could eat and enjoy.

Recipe for Tarte au sucre adapted from Link


Dough
⅓ cup whole milk, warmed to 110°F (use an instant read thermometer if you have one)
1 tablespoon sugar
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons flour (more as needed)
2 large eggs
¾ teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons butter

Topping
4 tablespoons butter
½ cup brown sugar

To make the yeast dough, proof the yeast in the warmed milk and add the sugar. Wait 2 minutes until the mixture is foamy.

If you’re using a bread maker, add all the ingredients for the dough and use the basic dough or basic French dough setting.

If you’re making the dough by hand, sift the flour on a marble slab or board and make a well in the center. Add the eggs, salt, and dissolved yeast mixture. Briefly mix the central ingredients then draw in the flour with both hands, pulling the dough into large crumbs with the fingertips. Knead the dough for 5 to 10 minutes or until very smooth and elastic, adding more flour if necessary so that the dough is not sticky. Pound the butter to soften it thoroughly, then work in into the dough, slapping the dough on the work surface, until the butter is thoroughly incorporated. The dough should be smooth, not sticky. Transfer the dough to a light oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth and let rise until almost doubled in bulk.

Thoroughly butter the pie pan. Transfer the risen dough to a floured work surface and fold it in thirds, patting it to knock out the air. Flour your hands and flatten the dough into the base, not the sides of the pan. Let rise for 15 minutes and then spread with butter cubes and sprinkle with the brown sugar. Let rise for 15 minutes and then bake for 15 or 20 minutes in a 400°F oven. Serve at room temperature.

Variations:
Use orange zest or lemon zest in the dough.
Fold some chocolate pieces into the dough.
Sift some icing sugar on top for decoration.
Serve with crème anglaise.
Tasting Notes

Once I finally mastered the recipe and technique, I found the sugar yeast cake a light snack perfect for breakfast or brunch. It's not too sweet. My husband added butter on top, heated it in the microwave, and slowly finished off the whole thing.

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $160.49 + $2.69 = $163.18

Butter used so far: 2 pounds, 25.5 tablespoons




Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Saucisson en brioche (Sausage baked in a brioche dough)


A sausage roll (or pigs in a blanket, toad in the hole, sausage in a nightgown, hotdogs, Hot Dog on a Stick, Pogo, corndog, French fry-coated hot dog, or bangers and mash) by any other name would taste as sweet, but the French sure have a way with words! Saucisson en brioche sounds much more delicious!

This dish comes from the Rhône-Alpes region of France where Lyon is the capital, and its sausages have always been famous.

map from Wikipedia

The first part of this recipe is the sausage. I gathered all the ingredients I needed — even the sausage casing. I’ve never made homemade sausages before and the combination of ground meat and intestinal lining from same animal set my stomach a little off. Once it was sealed up in the refrigerator ready to cure, I was able to move onto the more interesting part of the recipe: the brioche.

The richest of all breads is pâte à brioche (BREE-ohsh), and only a small yeast step away from being a pastry. The word comes from old French, from broyer, brier, which means to knead. Made with lots of eggs and butter, it’s a rich and tender bread. Traditional brioche à tête has what looks like a head or topknot on top of a roll made using special fluted molds. You can make it as traditional bread in a loaf pan, or use it en croûte, as in this version. In this case, brioche surrounds above-mentioned homemade sausage.

Brioche is bursting with butter, making it a difficult dough to work with. It is best handled when cool. Also, since it is a soft dough, it is kneaded differently from stiff bread doughs. Maybe that’s why mine didn’t rise. I kept checking my dough every three hours, and it didn’t change or grow. A soft dough is worked gently, by being “gathered up into a loose ball with a pastry scraper, then picked up with the fingertips of both hands and slapped back down into the bowl.” (Le Cordon Bleu At Home)

The second time I made this, I adapted the recipe for brioche from Cookwise by Shirley O. Corriher. I had no problems with this recipe, except that I had to add extra flour since my dough was too wet. It turned out buttery, rich, and tasty.

Another tricky part about this recipe is making the sausage stick to the brioche since it has a tendency to pull away. The author of Cookwise suggests coating the sausage with egg-flour layers to glue it securely to the dough to prevent it from pulling away as it rises.

Now, given that I’d made the sausages several days ahead, and given that the expiry date on the ground meat was close, and the fact that my first attempt at making brioche failed, and the schedules of a family life, and other such excuses, I didn’t trust that the sausages were viable without risk of food poisoning. So, after all this labour, I took some pictures, took a small bite, and decided to not risk anyone else’s health and quickly disposed of my fancy, schmancy Saucisson en brioche.

Recipe: Sausage 



1½ pounds pork, coarsely ground (about 25 percent fat such as Boston Butt)
2½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon sugar
¾ teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground
2 tablespoons white wine
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons black truffle, in julienne slivers (or dried porcini, in ¼-inch pieces)
sausage casing

You can find the recipe in Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home (affiliate link).

Recipe: Brioche 


I made this dough the same day that I used it.

1 tablespoon and 3 tablespoons sugar (¼ cup total)
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast
1 cup warm water (110°F)
4 cups bread flour (I used all-purpose flour)
1 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
5 large egg yolks, beaten
10 ounces (2½ sticks or 20 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon oil for bowl

You can find the recipe in Cookwise (affiliate link).

Finishing the Saucisson en brioche 

2 large egg yolks, beaten
flour for coating
1 large egg, beaten

You can find the recipe in Cookwise (affiliate link).

Tasting Notes

Better than your run-of-the-mill hotdog! Next time, I’ll skip the homemade sausage bit, and buy my favorite ones from the butcher to use in the hole. The brioche on its own was tasty too. It toasted up nicely, though a bit crumbly. Here's a picture of my "plain 'ol brioche".

. . . . . . . . .

Running total: $142.42 + $5.01 (Brioche) + $13.06 (Saucisson) = $160.49

Butter used so far: 2 pounds, 15.5 tablespoons

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Monday, February 11, 2008

Pissaladière (Salted yeast dough with onions, anchovies and olives)


Pissaladière is France’s version of pizza. It uses olive oil instead of butter, and there are no tomatoes or cheese. Instead, it contains slowly sautéed onions, anchovies, olives, and sometimes garlic to make a sweet and salty combination. Hmmn. Once again, my conservative, Scandinavian taste buds are being pushed to enjoy anchovies and olives.

This dish, which is a common street or snack food, comes from the Provence region in the southern part of France.

map from Wikipedia

The dough is usually thicker than that of the classic Italian pizza, but I have seen some recipes call for pâté brisée, puff pastry, or pizza dough (which is also a yeast dough) as the crust. If you’re making the yeast dough, you must start 4-6 hours beforehand.

The pissaladière gets its name from one of the ingredients traditionally used in it: pissala. Pissala, which derives its name from “piscis” for fish and “sal” for salt, is a fish paste made from anchovies or sardines. The fish is pounded using a mortar and pestle and aromatics such as thyme and bay are added.

Instead of pissala, nowadays anchovy filets are often used or even anchovy paste. The best anchovies are stored in salt, but before using them, rinse them well to remove the extra salt. For a less intense salt flavor, use anchovy filets packed in oil or another liquid and drain them on a paper towel before using. Make sure the oil hasn’t gone rancid. I was only able to find anchovies stored in brine.

Use white onions, which are somewhat sweeter then yellow onions. Also, for this dish, Niçoise (nee-SWAHZ) olives should be used since they’re the type of olive grown in Nice and have a smoky, nutty flavor. They’re small, oval olives that range in color from purple to black, cured in brine, and packed in olive oil. Again, I wasn’t able to find these in the local suburban grocery stores available to me, so I used Kalamata olives, which are also a purple/black color and recommended as a substitute for Niçoise by some cooking websites. They have a more fruity flavor. Also a tip: buy pitted olives. I didn't do this, but I was able to use my cherry pitter to remove the pits (a stocking stuffer that has come in handy on odd occasions!). I didn't realize it was also marketed as an olive pitter. :)

A tip I learned the hard way: Proof the yeast before using. I even went out and bought a brand new bottle of “traditional yeast” that wasn’t supposed to expire for 1 year. I didn’t proof the yeast. It didn’t rise. Next time, I made sure to proof the yeast by adding 1 teaspoon of sugar to the liquid/yeast mixture. If it doubled in volume after 10 minutes, I knew I had good yeast.

Recipe: Crust from Link


Makes 4 10-inch crusts

½ cup warm water (110°F, if using a thermometer) plus 1 cup warm water
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
575 g (3½ cups) all-purpose flour
6 g (1 teaspoon) salt
22 g (2 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil

Into the warm water, stir in yeast, and let stand until yeast dissolves and turns creamy, about 5 minutes. It’s best to use a thermometer to gauge the temperature of the liquid.

In a large bowl, combine flour and salt. Make a well, and fill it with the yeast mixture, olive oil, and a cup of warm water. Stir, incorporating liquid little by little, until a ball of dough forms. Turn dough onto floured work surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. If dough seems dry and hard, add a few drops of water (you can dip your fingertips in water to add drops at a time); if wet and sticky, add a little flour.

Shape dough into a smooth ball, dust with flour, and place in a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rest in a warm, dark place until doubled in bulk, about 90 minutes. Divide into 4 balls before using. You can freeze the dough for up to 3 months.

Recipe: Pissaladière 

adapted from Link and Link


Serves 6 as a starter

Dough for crust

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 kg white onions (just over 2 pounds)
1 bay leaf
4 garlic cloves, whole
splash of water
½ teaspoon balsamic vinegar

8 to 10 anchovy fillets in salt (if you can find it), well rinsed
about 16 Niçoise olives, sliced
fresh herbs such as rosemary, oregano, and thyme, chopped fine
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Peel the onions and slice into thin slices (¼-inch). In a heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the onions, the garlic, and the bay leaf. Stir to distribute oil and allow to sweat until they soften and the moisture released by the onions has evaporated and they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Then add the balsamic vinegar. Reduce and cook, stirring frequently to make sure onions are not sticking to the pan, until onions have softened and are medium golden brown, about 20 minutes longer. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Remove the garlic and bay leaf. You can make this up to 1 day ahead.

Stretch out the Pâte à Pissaladière dough into an oval and sprinkle with olive oil and freshly ground black pepper, leaving a ¾ inch or 2 cm border so that it can puff up. Top with cooled onion mixture, Niçoise olives, anchovies, herbs, and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Let it rise for 15 minutes. Bake in oven for 30-45 minutes. If desired, drizzle with a touch more olive oil. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Tasting Notes

Warning: You must like anchovies, olives, and lots of onions to enjoy this dish. It's a stinky dish best shared with someone else who likes stinky food! I prefer my "pizza" without anchovies or olives and a lot less onions. So, I've tried altering this recipe to fit my tastebuds, but then again, it's not a Pissaladière, is it?! My kids liked the Pâte à Pissaladière à la fromage! I guess that's a start.

. . . . . . . . . .

Running total: $131.77 + $1.72 (crust) + $8.93 (Pissaladière) = $142.42

Butter used so far: 1 pound, 27.5 tablespoons




Friday, February 1, 2008

Review — Basic Doughs Part 1

Here’s what my plan would look like if I were to make the following in one go:

• Flamiche
• Quiche Lorraine
• Pâté Pantin
• Tarte aux pommes

Since the Pâté Pantin requires marinating and the pâté brisée and pâté sucrée require resting, you must start with these.


Step 1
Start cooking bacon (½ to 1 cup bacon, cooked and sliced)

Mise en place: prepare meat
6 to 8 ounces caul fat
4 ounces chicken livers, cleaned and trimmed of sinews
2¼ pounds pork shoulder (Boston butt or pork butt), coarsely ground
½ pound veal shoulder
¾ pound veal shoulder, coarsely ground

Mise en place: chopping
4 ounces country ham, cooked, sliced into long ½ inch thick strips
¼ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, chopped dry into ¼ inch pieces (about 3 tablespoons)
1 pound + 3 pounds = 4 pounds leek, white parts only, sliced (about 3½ cups)
⅓ cup shallots, chopped

Mise en place: measure liquids and eggs
2 tablespoons + 1 tablespoon = 3 tablespoons cognac
1 +1 + 1 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 3 = 11 eggs
· 3 yolks
· 1 egg slightly beaten, for glazing
¼ cup heavy cream
15-30 mL (1-2 tablespoons) + 15-30 mL (1-2 tablespoons) + 15-30 mL (1-2 tablespoons) + 1 tablespoon + ½ cup + 3 tablespoons = 18 tablespoons or 1 cup plus some water
1½ cups whipping cream
⅓ cup white wine

Mise en place: measure butter
100 g (6 tablespoons) + 100 g (6 tablespoons) + 100 g (6 tablespoons) + 3 tablespoons + 50 g (3½ tablespoons) + 2 tablespoons + 1 tablespoon + 4 ounces (7 tablespoons) = 34½ tablespoons (2 cups or 1 pound plus a bit) butter
· 1 tablespoon cut into pea-sized dots
· 4 ounces (7 tablespoons) softened

Mise en place: prepare other items
¼ cup apricot glaze
1 lemon, juiced

Mise en place: measure herbs, spices, and pantry items
24 allspice berries
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
6 cloves
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon dried thyme
175 g (1 cup) + 100 g (1 cup)+ 100 g (1 cup)+ 100 g (1 cup) = 4 cups flour (all-purpose)
75 g (½ cup) + 100 g (1 cup)+ 100 g (1 cup)+ 100 g (1 cup) = 3½ cups flour (cake and pastry flour)
2 large fresh bay leaves
¼ teaspoon fresh thyme
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
pinch nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup pistachio nuts
5 g (¾ teaspoon) + 5 g (¾ teaspoon) 5 g (¾ teaspoon) + 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons + pinch + 1 teaspoon = ~9 teaspoons or 3 tablespoons salt
40 g (3 tablespoons) + 50 g (3½ tablespoons) + 2 tablespoons = 8 ½ tablespoons or ½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Step 2
Make 3 pâté brisée recipes.
Make 1 pâté sucrée recipe.

Step 3
Rest pâté brisée and pâté sucrée.
Make Pâté Pantin.

Step 4
Cook Pâté Pantin.
Roll out and blind bake 3 tarts (Flamiche, Quiche, Tarte aux pommes).
Make Flamiche.
Make Quiche.
¼ cup (1 ounce) Swiss or Gryère cheese, grated

Step 5
Cook Flamiche and Quiche.
Make Tarte aux pommes.
3 apples, chopped into a paysanne (small squares)
3 apples, sliced into ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick slices

Step 6
Cook Tarte aux pommes.