This weekend, we went appetizer hopping in the Byward Market in the heart of Ottawa. The market is filled with restaurant gems, where the latest and most buzz-worthy is Play. Owned by the same restaurant savant as Beckta, Stephen Beckta has paired his love of wine with his love of food to come up with a unique dining experience.

At Play, a riff on Thomas Keller's small plates at The French Laundry and Spanish tapas, you order small portions from a charcuterie, savoury, cheese or sweet part of the menu. Along with each item is a recommended wine pairing. Each dish is delicately and expertly prepared by a staff of chefs in an open kitchen.

I ordered the trout / cornbread / cashew / green pea with Tocai Fruilano Terzetto, which was delicious with the toasted nuts and browned butter. But the star of the table was the potato leek soup / chervil / truffle oil with Vouvray Domaine Aubuisières, which the waiter said would be a great sipping wine on a weekend afternoon (and I agree!).

Last year I made a leek and potato soup that was tasty, but this version at Play was better. It had a delicate garlic flavor and was extremely smooth. I am tempted to re-make my soup this week if only to achieve the velvety texture they did at Play.

For my leek and potato soup recipe, click here. For a fun dining experience, go out and Play.